The small town of Marfa, located in the windswept
plains of west Texas, remains one of my most "out there" destinations to
this day - and that has just as much to do with it's remote location as
it does the mysterious, paranormal lore that surrounds it.
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Provided by Google Maps. |
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Winter skies |
You see, Marfa isn't just a sleepy rural outpost surrounded by
miles and miles (and miles) of high plain desert, it is the home of the
mysterious Marfa Lights, a still to this day unexplained phenomenon.
I traveled this seldom trod
eastward route one December from Portland, Oregon back to my Atlantic
home before Christmas 2008 with my traveling companion, Katie. This was back in the day when we just
flexing our intrepid traveler's wings and thought ourselves mighty
brave, bold, and adventurous for seeking such wildly remote destinations
- destinations that our New England comrades would have a hard time
pointing to on a map. So when we found ourselves dipping into West Texas towards the
least visited National Park in the contiguous (Big Bend), I had to grasp
the opportunity to role play a little Mulder to my inner Scully. We just had
to go to Marfa to investigate.
And did we see the lights? You better believe we did. (Although, I was suspiciously unable to capture photos of them)
We got lucky - we arrived around dusk and immediately were
able to glean the dancing lights through the stationary binoculars at
the convenient viewing platform located, about 9 miles from Marfa. From where we viewed them, we could see
the greenish-yellow light balls hang suspiciously in the air,
occasionally dashing this way or that and splitting from one light ball
into two, then melding back together. What's better is that they hung
doggedly about for the duration of our visit.
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Courtesy of papiblogger.com. |
A little light research on Wikipedia will flippantly
discount the phenomenon as passing car lights possibly reflecting on
some sort of atmospheric disturbance caused by nighttime temperature
gradations. And while my inner Scully may accept that to be true, the
foxier side of me wants to believe differently.
So what are they, Mulder? Swamp gas? Will o' the Wisps? Ghosts? Alien homing beacons?
Hard to say anything except that the four hour, out of the
way journey down dark Texas backroads was TOTALLY WORTH the visit to
Marfa and a chance to glimpse the infamous Marfa Lights. To us lonely travelers, they seemed very spooky and decidedly NON-headlight like, indeed.
Later, we drove a sketchy road along the pitch black Rio
Grande, nearly stranded ourselves in soft sand at a primitive campsite
we hastily vacated, dodged javelinas, and did some offroading through a
ranch to find the road again while not seeing a single other vehicle for six
hours. In the morning we tried to swim to Mexico - don't tell the government.
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The Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend NP. |
For those who do head out to West Texas to see the lights, I
would also recommend checking out the excellent contemporary art hubs
such as
The Chinati Foundation and
Prada Marfa. And don't forget to stay at the ultra chic
El Cosmico nomadic hotel.
Oh, and whatever you do, do not try to approach the lights. You know, in case they are alien homing beacons.